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An
astonishing happiness welled up in me, but I could not define
it. Everything was so new, so utterly unprecedented.
-- Maurice Herzog
High land:
At an average elevation of 3800 meters, Daocheng, also called
'Dabpa' in Tibetan, is located in Southwest Sichuan, close
to the border of Northwest Yunnan. Although Daocheng is renowned
for Yading's spectacular mountain scenery, the scenery around
Daocheng is also worth a
rating. The attractive wild river valley and hills hide a
number of splendid Tibetan monasteries, natural sites. Local
Tibetan farmers still live in their own culture and lifestyle.
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Map:
Around Daocheng.
Hongchaodi (Red Glass Lake): A lovely
lake fringed
by red bushes,
located half way between Sangdui and Daocheng (see left photo
4).
Rupuchaka Hot Springs: 4km outside
Daocheng. You can go there either by walking or by taxi. In
autumn 2003 when water was in short supply at most hotels
in Daocheng, travelers went to Rupuchaka for a hot-spring
bath. It was reported that many cockroaches were found in
the bathroom. Avoid going there during the night when cockroaches
are extremely active, and can be found everywhere, even in
your clothes and shoes. Believing in Buddhism, local Tibetans
do not bother to eliminate them.
Comments from travelers: " the hot spring 2 km out of town is also nice, did not see any rats or coackroaches, but i went during
the daytime. the hot spring told me it would be 30Rmb for a soak but i bargained it down to 20Rmb (or was it offer of 40 and bid of 30? sorry i forgot). The walk out to the hot spring is also very pleasant if you don't want to take taxi." (Fanglangzhe)
Monasteries:
Bangpu Si: Built in the 12th
century and located 1km north of Sangdui
along the main road. Ticket: Y10.
Zhujie Si: South of Sangdui, 18km north of Daocheng.
Xiongdeng Si: 10km northeast of Daocheng, at an elevation
of 4105 meters.
Rewu Si: South of Daocheng, built on a slope (see left
photo 3).
Gongling Si (Konkaling): Built
in the 15th century and located
62km south of Daocheng along the road to Yading. Ticket: Y10.
It
is the biggest monastery in Daocheng.
How
to visit: Rent a car either in Sangdui
or in Daocheng. Try to find other travelers to share the car.
Another option is to walk to these sites except Gongling Si
if you have enough time. It must be a pleasant journey to
discover these fabulous monasteries and hidden Tibetan villages
by foot among pastoral scenery. |
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Getting
there:
Two options: see
Daocheng in the Southwest Itineraries ,
Map.
Option
1: Chengdu (Alt. 500M) --> Kangding (2500M) --> Daocheng
(3800M); Around 800 km; Minimum 2 days by bus or car.
-
Take a bus heading for Kangding either at Chengdu Tourist
Transportation Center (ex. Xinnanmen bus station) or at
North Bus Station in the morning. (Y97 - Y109).
- Upon arriving at Kangding in the late afternoon, buy your
ticket immediately for the Daocheng bus. Tickets can be
sold out quickly during the peak season. If you are not
tight on schedule, you can stay at Kangding for one or two
days. Visit Mugecuo Lake, Tagong Glassland and adapt yourself
to the altitude.
- Kangding to Daocheng: 12 hours by bus. Most travelers
would feel the strong effect of high altitude if they come
to Daocheng from Chengdu in two days.
Option 2: Kunming --> Lijiang --> Tiger Leaping Gorge
-->
Zhongdian
(3300M) --> Daocheng:
One of the most fabulous travel routes in China for independent
travelers. If you are adapted to Zhongdian's altitude, you
would have no difficulty in Daocheng.
- Travel from Kunming to Zhongdian see Zhongdian
- Getting there.
- The regular bus connecting Zhongdian to Daocheng (330km,
12 hours) zigzags in the awesome Shangri-La Gorge (ex Birang
Gorge). However this route is often cut by landslides.
- If
the direct bus service between Zhongdian and Daocheng is
suspended, take an alternative route although it looks more
complicated: Zhongdian - Derong - Xiangcheng - Sangdui -
Daocheng
First
take a bus from Zhongdian to Derong,
(5 hours) and then find a collective taxi to Xiangcheng
(4 to 5 hours). Stay overnight in Xiangcheng and catch
the morning bus for Sangdui
(3.5 hours). From Sangdui, the friendly owner of Happy
Shop can send you to Daocheng by his own car for Y20 per
person.
Derong is
located in a sheer gorge, 144km
north of Zhongdian.
A daily bus leaves Zhongdian for Derong at 9:00am (Y40, 5
hours).
One bus every two days leaves Derong for Kangding, passing
through Xiangcheng, Sangdui, and Litang. Accommodations: Liangyou
Hotel has double rooms from Y80 to Y120. From
the bus stop, cross the bridge and turn right. (See Map: Derong
Town.) Surrounded by sacred mountains, awesome gorges,
high meadows,
Derong is a nice place to discover a wild and pristine landscape.
Xiangcheng
nestles in a beautiful
valley of terrace fields, dotted with traditional Tibetan
farm houses and splendid monasteries. The surrounding landscape
is more flagrant and peaceful than that of in Derong.
Xiangcheng - Sangdui: take a daily Kangding bus. Check the
departure time in advance as it is not the same every day!!
It
takes three and a half hours for the bus to climb to a col
of 4700M and descend to Sangdui (nearly 4000M).
Accommodations: Bamushan Hotel has dormitory rooms, Y30 per
bed. A standard double room costs Y150.-.
Xiangcheng is worth a visit. A day tour proposed by a guide
at Bamushan Hotel includes visiting a Tibetan farm house in
a nearby Tibetan village, hot springs, and the fabulous monastery
outside the town. See
Xiangcheng Map.
Don't
miss the trek information from Khamaid.org: Xiangcheng
- Bamu Mountain Hike
.
Sangdui
is a quite, charming Tibetan village. Ugly modern buildings
haven't come up in Sangdui yet. Don't miss Bangpu monastery,
1km north of Sangdui, along the enchanting Daocheng River.
Don't stay at Sangdui as the only lodge run by Happy Shop
looks awful. Go further to Daocheng (28km) by the car of Happy
Shop.
Getting
away:
It's
a pity if you return the same way you come. I recommend to
go to Daocheng from Zhongdian and then quit Daocheng for Litang,
Kangding and Chengdu. Daocheng has daily bus leaving for Kangding.
During peak season, a mini bus is added for Xingduqiao. Both
buses pass through Litang where you can head for west, starting
your adventure in Tibet.
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Daocheng
Town:
Among Tibetan family-hostels, Pengshongcuo
彭松错 (Tel: 0836-5728581)
has gained a good reputation. This hostel has several double
rooms with WC for Y80. It is located on a street, one hundred
meters north of the bus station, at the same side.
Yadingren
Shequ Hotel 亚丁人社区
provides travelers with a lot of hiking information.
A clean double room without bathroom: Y50 - Y60. The hotel
organizes hiking in Yading Nature Reserve. They can help organize
treks from Yading to Muli or other places.
Yading
Hotel 亚丁宾馆:
A newly built luxury hotel in Daocheng. Double room starts
from Y220.-. Run by the local government, the hotel offers
a typical Chinese style service. During my visit in Daocheng
in 2003, this was the only hotel having hot shower in the
room.
In September 2003, the town was in a state of chaos. The city's
water and electricity supplies had been cut during most hours
of the day due to a renovation project. Main street were full
of bumps and hollows.
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Before
Daocheng : Zhongdian,
Derong, Xiangcheng
After Daocheng :
Litang, the route to Tibet.
Upon arriving Litang, you can wait for a bus going west to
Batang by the national road 318, and
go further to Markham(Mangkang) in Tibet.
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